Growing and Nurturing Cattleya Orchids: A Guide to Luscious Blooms

When most people think of orchids, they likely envision a Cattleya orchid – which is pronounced kat-lee-uh. These orchids are known for their showy, fragrant flowers that come in a wide range of colors and shapes. Some species of Cattleya orchids have large blooms that can stretch several inches across, while others have smaller but equally beautiful flowers. Cattleya orchids usually only flower once a year, but some hybrids have been developed to bloom more than once.

These orchids are epiphytic, meaning they grow naturally attached to other plants, like tree branches. Their foliage is typically a dull green color, and the plants grow from pseudobulbs that store nutrients and water. Cattleya orchids are generally slow growers, taking between four and seven years to mature. They are usually long-lived plants. The best time to plant Cattleya orchids is when new growth appears after flowering, and they can be started from seeds at any time.

Cattleya orchids are also known as corsage orchids or Queen of the Orchids. They belong to the Orchidaceae family and are perennial plants that can grow up to 3-24 inches tall and wide. They prefer partial sun exposure and well-drained soil with an acidic pH. They tend to bloom in the spring and fall in colors such as white, green, yellow, orange, red, and purple. They are native to Central and South America and thrive in USDA hardiness zones 10-12.

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The Cattleya orchid, native to Brazil, is named after horticulturist William Cattley, who saved a withering shipment of the flower and popularized it in London. These orchids are easy to care for and make great houseplants as well as outdoor plants in tropical climates or during warmer months in frosty areas. Proper light, temperature, humidity, watering, and feeding are key to their success. Bright indirect light is ideal, and commercial growing mixes work well. Weekly watering is sufficient, but the plant shouldn’t sit in consistently wet soil. Daytime temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are preferred, and humidity levels around 40 to 70 percent are best. Balanced orchid fertilizer at low levels weekly works well. There are several species and hybrids within the Cattleya genus that differ in appearance and bloom time.

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The image credits go to sKrisda from Getty Images.

When it comes to potting and repotting cattleya orchids, it’s important to note that these plants don’t like their roots disturbed. Only repot when necessary – typically every two years or when the roots are growing over the edge of the pot and/or the growing medium has decomposed, causing poor drainage. Choose a slightly larger container with drainage holes, and loosen the roots from the old container, shaking off as much old soil as possible. Place the plant in the new container at the same depth and pack fresh orchid potting mix around the roots.

Cattleya orchids are prone to pests, especially scale, which can seriously damage the plant by sucking sap from various parts of the plant. Catching and eliminating scale is crucial, and there are various methods to do so, such as using rubbing alcohol or neem oil. Other common pests include thrips and spider mites, which can cause damage but likely won’t kill the plant. Mealybugs can also be found around buds, but they can be washed away with water and other methods.

To get a cattleya orchid to bloom, make sure it’s getting enough light. Orchids that aren’t getting enough light will have darker than normal foliage and often won’t flower. A grow light may be beneficial in encouraging the plant to bloom, as artificial lighting is easier to regulate for consistent lighting.

Though cattleya orchids are generally easy to grow, issues may arise. Signs of problems include a wrinkled pseudobulb, which indicates severe dehydration, and discolored pseudobulbs, which can indicate a water mold problem causing root rot. Large brown spots on leaves may be caused by a bacterial issue, and dead leaf tips may indicate anthracnose, a fungal disease. Yellow spots on leaves may be caused by an infestation of scale or spider mites.